Sunday, 14 August 2016

The Olympics - The Greatest Show on Earth

The Olympic rings at the main park
Having felt left out after we missed the London Olympics the planning for our trip began eighteen months ago when we first heard about tickets going on sale for Rio 2016.  When we were lucky enough to be offered some for a number of events our whole adventure became geared around getting to Brazil.  We therefore arrived in Rio with mixed emotions as we suddenly realised that our trip was at an end and we were soon to start a new life in Vietnam, something that had not seemed real until then. Thankfully being a spectator at the Olympics is at least as difficult as being an athlete and we were kept fully occupied rather than thinking about our next step! Despite the negative press from the UK (no surprise there) Rio did a fantastic job of putting on the games.  In a country struggling economically it was never going to be able to match London or Beijing for modern infrastructure but the spectacular backdrop and wonderful locals more than made up for any minor difficulties.  To see the excitement and enthusiasm of people from across South America at their first Olympics was surely what the games are all about and we loved every minute of our experience!

The Olympic Boulevard for the Opening Ceremony
Hoping to soak up as much of the atmosphere for the opening ceremony as we could, we headed down the Olympic boulevard to Praça Mauá where big screens had been set up and a large crowd had gathered for anyone not lucky enough to have tickets.  As a huge sports fan I have always enjoyed watching the Olympics but until the opening ceremony started I had not appreciated how much more the games are than just a sporting occasion as people of all faiths and nationalities came together in a party atmosphere. Flags waved from around the world and huge cheers went up from the crowd as the athletes emerged into the stadium and there was real excitement about the fortnight to come.  This was helped by the Brazilians that had snuck past security (not a challenging job) with backpacks full of  beer which the crowd gratefully drank. As the G.B team emerged we celebrated loudly with Union Jacks painted on our faces along with hundreds of other Brits to really get us into the Olympic spirit!

Centre Court at Rio 2016
We had tickets for six different sports during our week at the Olympics although our first was the one I had been looking forward to the most, the tennis.  The 10,000 seat centre court is one of the main legacies of the games and the impressive arena had an electric atmosphere as first on court was Brazils Tomaz Bellucci against the only man with dreadlocks in tennis, Dustin Brown.  As with a lot of the events the home fans strangely booed anyone taking on a local favourite which seemed to me out of keeping with the Olympic ethos.  They even booed as Brown fell down when leading, although when he was forced to retire from the injury they gave him a huge round of applause as he left the court. We were then treated to watching Serena Williams batter her way past her Australian opponent who it was impossible not to feel a little sorry for before Andy Murray came on court.   As the flag bearer for the G.B team we felt we had struck gold when his match was scheduled for our session. He promptly demolished Viktor Troiki whilst Hannah got very excited trying to spur the other Brits sat next to us who mustered all the energy of an old folks Christmas party. 
Let's Go Andy Let's Go!
The spectacular backdrop to the rowing course
Despite the concerns about security around Rio the reported 85,000 soldiers that had been drafted in to protect the fans meant we felt very safe venturing out to the different venues.  In true Latino style the underground stopped 10 km short of the Olympic park although the connecting buses successfully transported us in organised chaos to the various Olympic sites around the city.  Our second event, the rowing, was held on Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas with a spectacular backdrop of Christ the Redeemer and the Corcovado Mountain.  The stands were full and we saw Britain qualify from every heat we competed in.  In the afternoon we crossed the city to Rio Centro where we got to see the boxing and table tennis to complete a long sixteen hour day. The boxing had a fantastic atmosphere with the Brazilian supporters backing the underdog of each three round bout by stamping their feet and cheering every punch.  Amazingly there were similar scenes in the table tennis where an Austrian competitor was attempting to stop the Asian domination of the tournament.  With this not going particularly well the entire stand we were sat  in collected flags from the Austrian team to wave whilst chanting ‘Austria’ and creating a real buzz for our final event of the evening.  They were treated to the player throwing her bat and wristbands into the crowd at the end to a huge ovation - who knew table tennis was so rock & roll!

The Beach Volleyball Arena on Copacabana
With so many amazing memories from the Olympics it is difficult to summarise our week into a few paragraphs.  One of my favourite elements of the Olympics was the strange closeness the spectators have with the athletes. We met the Mexican table tennis team on the underground one afternoon and even walked past Sir Steve Redgrave on our final evening as well as spotting various athletes in the stands. Another highlight for me was going to the Beach Volleyball Arena that had been built in the middle of Copacabana beach.  It is possibly the most perfect venue for any Olympic sport!  After some great work from Hannah we managed to dodge the huge ques that had built up and we got in to the stadium in time to see the Brazilian men’s team win a tense final set.  Music played for different shots in the match and the whole stadium was up on their feet with hands raised for each ‘monster bloc’ or ‘super spike’ and there was even a full samba band and dancers performing during the interludes - it was an amazing atmosphere!  I became a lifelong fan of the Poland women’s team as I enjoyed a cold beer in the scorching heat whilst looking out over the beach.


Unfortunately this did not end well for the British competitor!
We went to different sports in the afternoon as Hannah went to watch the fencing final with Sarah and I headed back to the boxing arena with Brendon.  Meeting a giant Dutchman Yuri and his friend (former volleyball players) we sat and surprisingly had a few beers whilst cheering on the fighters from the front row.  After the bouts we decided that the logical option was to stay for a drink but when we went to buy a beer we were accosted by some locals.  After a translation error it transpired that they wanted to collect the different plastic souvenir cups that each show a different sport. In a surprising twist however they didn’t want the beer inside them and they actually seemed grateful to us for drinking it for them.  Thinking Christmas had come early this phenomenal pattern continued and some four hours later we staggered out of the Olympic village having been given free drink for the evening - I love Brazil! 

Joe Clarke receiving his Gold Medal
Our last event was my only final of the Olympics (we obviously got the cheap tickets for the heats) and we had picked the Men’s Canoe Slalom final to watch the K2 event where G.B was expected to do well.  It took nearly two hours to travel through some of the more run down areas of the city to the Deodoro X Park which overlooks a large favela.  As we watched the dark clouds roll in the British competitor Joe Clarke went third fastest in the semi-final and we waited around in the drizzle in anticipation of a British medal.  We were not disappointed and when the final two boats (they went off in reverse order in the final) could not better Joe’s fastest time we celebrated wildly with the other British fans.  Getting to see a British athlete receiving a gold medal gave us a perfect send off and ended our Olympic experience with British success.  To mark the end of our journey we went to the famous Churrascaria Palace, a Brazilian meat restaurant where waiters paraded around with everything from tender steak to lamb and wild boar on giant skewers and mobile BBQ grills.

The Deodoro X Park
The 403rd and final day of our trip was spent packing and taking a final walk along Copacabana beach.  With a whole new experience to start in Vietnam we had no time for an emotional crash as we grew excited about our new life although not so pleased about the thirty four hour journey from Rio to Hanoi.  The year had been everything we had hoped it would be, and more. Having survived thirty five different countries across four continents together (including travelling from Italy to Ho Chi Minh City by land!) we were both exhausted when we boarded the plane to start the final leg of our journey to our new adventure.

Sunday, 7 August 2016

Rio de Janeiro - The City of God

The View from Christ the Redeemer
Jimmy Hill
As the only city on the planet to boast both a natural and man-made wonder of the world we were brimming with excitement as we entered the city for the 2016 Olympics.  Sitting on the edge of the majestic Guanabara Bay and surrounded by towering pinnacles the backdrop to the city is unmistakable as Christ the Redeemer watches over the city below.  Unfortunately none of this was visible when we arrived into the central bus station in drizzle as low cloud obscured the surrounding area!  This came almost as a blessing though as the weather meant that we could do a few jobs for Vietnam without distractions.  The most tedious of these was the arduous task of shopping for an entire new wardrobe for work as we will arrive less than 24 hours before starting a new job.  Thankfully we managed to get this out of the way with only my disbelief at having to pay a premium to not dress like a teenage girl in skinny trousers and we were rewarded with bright skies the following day to start exploring.

Rio de Janeiro Cathedral
Escadaria Selaron
Initially founded by the French in January and mistakenly named after a river that turned out to be a bay the city is as muddled as its name.  The 20km sprawl houses 14 million people in an extraordinary geographical puzzle. We therefore decided to try and understand a little about the city and get our bearings by taking a walking tour of the downtown area. Stepping off of the subway it quickly became apparent that the centre is in need of a little investment with its decaying buildings and pavements but it still held a certain charm, largely thanks to our enthusiastic guide Natalia.   As we roamed the narrow colonial streets we arrived at the former ‘palace’ (think more a row of terraced houses than Versailles) that formerly belonged to the Portuguese royal family who fled from Napoleon to live in Brazil.  A few streets away Rio's cathedral turned out to be a surprise as we discovered a strange cone shaped building with incredible stain glass windows running up the full height of the building.  Although the theatre and library were the only buildings of real beauty the city was intriguing and we arrived in the bohemian neighbourhood of Lapa to find the Escadaria Selaron, a work of art created by a Chilean artist for the Brazilian people.  Initially deciding to place blue, green and yellow tiles on the dilapidated steps outside of his home to improve the neighbourhood he quickly got carried away.  Eventually his project covered the entire flight of steps (nearly 200) with hand painted tiles whilst others were donated from people around the world representing their nation.  It seemed like a great place to get into the Olympic spirit as people arriving for the games from around the world searched the steps for their nations tile.

Looking out towards Sugar Loaf Mountain from Botofogo 
Rio de Janeiro from Corcovado Mountain
Wanting to get in as much sightseeing as we could before the opening ceremony we woke up early and headed up the iconic Corcovado Mountain to visit our fifth wonder of the world, the statue of Christ the Redeemer.  As with most Latino organisation we ended up needing to take a taxi and three separate buses to reach the top of the 700m granite peak (Latinos run on a sometimes infuriating and often wonderfully relaxed attitude to planning) but we somehow reached the final checkpoint in reasonable time.  As we ascended the ‘escalator to heaven’ under the colossal statue I suddenly realised what all the fuss about Rio was about.  In the hectic streets of the city it was impossible to appreciate the breath taking geography of the area but looking out across the city at Copacabana beach, Guanabara Bay and Sugarloaf Mountain it all made sense.  Nobody seemed to pay much attention to the 100ft tall statue of Jesus behind as people jostled on the narrow platform to get lost in the panoramic.  We arrived just after the Refugee Olympic Team and so there were plenty of officials around and the crowds gradually grew thicker and as the temperature soared we were relieved to start making our way down the steep road back to Botofogo.

Escalator to Heaven
Copacabana
The morning after the Olympic opening ceremony we collected our tickets for our events and headed back to our new apartment for the week in Copacabana ready to experience the iconic beach.  With the incredible Olympic Volley Ball stadium occupying one end and thousands of spectators enjoying the atmosphere we took a walk along the sand.  The beach is everything that you read about giving you an overload of visual stimulation (not all of it wanted!) with people of all shapes and sizes sporting limited amounts of material.  Negotiating the football, volleyball and keepy-up sessions that covered the beach were ‘waiters’ shouting CAIPIRINHA as the powerful waves came crashing down along the length of the surprisingly clean beach.  What Christ makes of the ‘City of God’ from his lofty position above the city is anyone’s guess but the intoxicating nature of the city and the energy of the cariocas (people of Rio) make Rio de Janeiro and unforgettable experience and a real highlight of our trip.

Tuesday, 2 August 2016

The Costa Verde

The Costa Verde
With the Olympics fast approaching and a new life waiting for us in Vietnam we decided a relaxing week exploring the coastline to Rio was needed before the reality of a job began.  Having no pre-conceived notions of what we would find in Brazil everything we had seen of the country had been a beautiful surprise and the incredible Costa Verde (green coast) of southern Brazil blew us away.  For the entire journey thick rainforest covered the peculiar pinnacles of the Serra do Mar Mountains as they dramatically plunged into the blue water of the Atlantic.  The road hugged the coastline showing us the golden sandy beaches and small fishing villages that occasionally emerged through the foliage offering us spectacular views for the duration.  Having learnt our lesson from the past few weeks we managed to co-ordinate our beach visits with the weather and made the most of the overcast days with some strenuous hiking through the rainforest.  After thirteen months on the road it was strange to suddenly see our final destination appear on the local map. Thoughts of work were kept at bay as we began to see more adverts for the Olympics.
Ihlabela
Bonete Beach
After a last minute change of plan we headed towards Ihlabela (beautiful Island) from Sao Paolo which soars out of the sea across a narrow straight from the mainland.  The extinct volcano towers over the surrounding area rising to 1370m and with 85% of the island protected by UNESCO it offered an exotic backdrop to the beaches that lined the island.   Thankfully we arrived in off season (the island is the getaway for the rich of Sao Paolo) so the beaches were often deserted and the twisty road that connects the island was quiet.  After a few days enjoying the sun and sand as well as the freezing cold water the clouds rolled in and so we decided to walk to Bonete beach, named by The Guardian as one of the ten best beaches in Brazil.  Whilst Hannah rested her ankle I embarked on what turned out to be a hilly 28km march led by Sarah and Brendon (who competes in Iron Man competitions) along rocky trails and through thick rainforest in 85% humidity.  As the three hour mark approached and I consumed my 9th granola biscuit desperately searching for fuel reserves we finally rounded the corner to find the beach nestled in a small cove.  It was undoubtedly beautiful but with little confidence that a boat would arrive in the large swell we quickly ate lunch and in a twenty minute turnaround headed back to civilisation to catch the bus before dark.  For our final night on Ihlabela we decided a few bottles of rum were needed to enjoy the free music on offer on Playa Grande.  I can remember little more of the evening than a fish BBQ and the concerned faces of the locals as four Brits careered around dancing to some classic 90’s Indie covers.  Eventually common sense prevailed (as well as a problem standing upright) and we staggered off to get the bus home feeling content that we had at least done ourselves proud.
Paraty
Paraty
Feeling sorry for ourselves the following morning we left the hostel at 7am (who decided that a second bottle of rum was a good idea is a hotly disputed question) and we set off on the fifteen minute ferry ride back to Sao Sebastiao.  Taking the bus north we headed to the small town of Paraty in Rio State where the centre has remained fundamentally unchanged since 1650.  The town centre was without doubt one of the most beautiful we have been with colonial white buildings adorned by bright borders and original cobbled roads running along the coast of an island studded bay. Recognised as a National Historic Site the former Portuguese colony was an important post for trading Brazilian gold and the money seems to have lingered with the expensive restaurants and boutique hotels.  We spent a great few days relaxing on the beach and lounging in ‘weigh restaurants’ whilst staying in a quaint hostel run by the friendliest (and most productive Latin American) owner.  It was a perfect end to our travelling as we bought our final inter-city bus tickets to complete a journey to Rio de Janeiro and the 2016 Olympics!