Sunday, 18 October 2015

Aimless wanderings in Bratislava

Bratislava Castle
Having been left to my own devices for 4 days whilst Hannah visited friends in Munich I planned to visit two more famous capital cities situated along the banks of the Danube, Bratislava and Vienna.  As I only had 2 days in each, time was of a premium and the two hour walk in the driving rain when I arrived in Bratislava was not part of the master plan.  Refusing to take another taxi has no doubt helped my wallet and anger management issues but it has led to longer walks than planned from bus and train stations to our accommodation.  However, I am well known for my aversion to modern technology and posess an ability to draw scrawled maps (rather than use GPS and googlemaps) that somehow lead to our destination is a forte.  Up until Bratislava, navigating our way around cities had  thus far proved to be successful.  In defence of my crudely drawn map my adventure to my room in Bratislava was not helped by the accommodation being on a series of streets in a re-developed Soviet housing complex that contained four roads all with the same name.  This was further exasperated by my accommodation having no advertising and a phone number that when rang went straight to an automated system that my fluent grasp of the Slovakian language could not translate.  By this stage my crudely drawn paper map on the back of a bus ticket had disintegrated in the deluge and coupled with carrying 30 kg for 2 hours I was beginning to have a sense of humour failure.  Getting increasingly wet I began desperately asking anybody else stupid enough to be out in the monsoon for directions.  Eventually a women was able to walk me 2 metres away from where I had started my quest in the housing estate nearly an hour before to an unmarked building and a  concealed intercom system to my accommodation.  Brilliant. 

The view from Devin Castle




The following day I was rewarded with a beautiful winter’s day to explore and so I headed 10 kilometres out of Bratislava to Devin Castle.  Although the ruins themselves do not take long to explore they are situated a few hundred metres above the merging Danube and Morava rivers.  From the highest buttress of the castle you can look out across the forests towards Austria and I spent the rest of the morning with my headphones in enjoying life with a walk along the blue Danube.  Bratislava is a relatively small capital by European standards and sits under the watchful gaze of the restored castle that dominates the surrounding area from its lofty position.   It offers an impressive panoramic of Bratislava and the beautiful countryside that surrounds it although having visited enough museums recently I walked back down the hill into the old town without going inside.  The city’s Stary Mesto (old town) has been beautifully restored after the Soviets built a motorway through the middle of it.  St Martins Cathedral which crowned 11 Austro – Hungarian monarchs is right next to the motorway but it was easy to imagine the coronations of the Hapsburg dynasty despite the Soviet redevelopment of the area. The old town itself is quite small although its maze of streets and road works seemed to thwart my every turn which meant I spent a lot of time walking in circles which had seemed to define my time in Bratislava.  By late afternoon I felt I had wandered enough and I headed back to my accommodation surprisingly without incident to watch the football guilt free with Hannah still in Munich and not being forced to endure an afternoon of me shouting at a TV.  



One of the numerous strange statues around Brastislava

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