New Year in Laos

Heading to Laos we were hoping to spend a few weeks in the countryside having spent winter largely in cities. The bus ride from Hanoi to the former capital, Luang Prabang showed us exactly what we wanted to see!  We crossed the border high in the rugged Annamite Mountains surrounded by lush green forest in one of the numerous national parks across the country.  Bleary eyed from the lack of sleep we were unfortunately on the bottom of a set of bunk beds on the bus (a new experience for me on a bus!) and did not have the best view out of the window so we were relieved to arrive after a gruelling 30 hour journey!  Luang Probang was the former capital under the royal family and it lies on a peninsula between the small Nam Khan River and the mighty Mekong River that acts as the main life line for transport and goods across the country, as well as the border to Thailand in the west of the country.  The town is full of colour as monks of all ages dressed in bright orange robes move in between the ornate temples and hoards tourists.  As Buddhist temples act in parallel with government schools in Laos the temples are full of young monks reading and learning and gives the town, as well as the country, a calm feeling (unless you are using any form of transport!).

A giant BBQ at the Night Market

We set off on New Year’s Eve to visit Kuang Si Waterfall, an hour’s journey outside of Luang Probang in the lush jungle surrounding the town.  As we sped along the bumpy road in a minivan faces of terrified passengers sat at the back of the passing tuc-tucs inched further up the cramped rows of the benches they perched on trying to stay clear of our driver who it appeared was trying to force them from the road.  We made it in record time to the waterfall and after another BBQ we walked through the jungle and to our surprise encountered a group of black Asian bears who had been rescued from poachers.  Free the Bears have set up similar centres across South East Asia and India in a bid to raise awareness of animal rights and conservation among local communities.  Many animals such as elephants, leopards and rhinos are now endangered following the carpet bombing of the region by Richard Nixon, Chinese beliefs that strange body parts of animals contain aphrodisiacs and illegal deforestation, which if continued will leave Laos with just 30% of its trees by 2020.  Walking up through the jungle we followed the river that had turned turquoise from the calcium carbonate in the lime stone rocks and made it to the top to see the spectacular 50m high waterfall plunging into the azure pool below.  After a swim in the freezing cold water we headed back to town, forcing any moped, tuk-tuk or farm animal we encountered to flee for cover as we raced back for New Year’s Eve festivities. 

As there as only one bar in Luang Probang hosting a New Year’s Eve party our options were limited to crowds of backpackers or the local show on a huge stage in the centre of the town.  We tried to start the evening by drinking the bottle of champagne Hannah had carried across from Vietnam, heading down one of the steep flights of steps that led down to the river to toast the New Year.  Unfortunately the champagne was flat and clearly years out of date and a drunk local staggered to the top of the flight of steps and narrowly avoided urinating over us!  The evening was rounded off by listening to two Laotians talking non-stop to a crowd that could be at best described as sparse whilst we waited for the promised fireworks that never came - walking home in the rain we could at least be sure 2016 could only get better!

The town itself was a good tonic from the giant metropolises of China but not quite as ‘authentic’ (if such a description of local communities exists anymore) of rural Laos as we wanted to try and see.  The town is geared up for both backpackers and people on short holidays and in the centre is mainly tour operators, restaurants and hotels as well as the obligatory people selling ‘local’ crafts imported cheaply from China.  The giant night market also sells amazing BBQ food though We still enjoyed meandering alongside the river and narrow streets, as well as exploring the fantastic temples.  The former Royal Residence of Laos was set in beautiful gardens and although nowhere near as grand as other palaces we have seen was an interesting insight into rule before the 1975 communist overthrow.  Amazingly a gift in 1972 from Richard Nixon, at the peak of the bombing of Laos which saw more bombs dropped on the region than during the whole of WW2 had engraved on it American desire to spread global democracy and peace!  We also climbed Mount Phousi in the centre of the town to be welcomed with stunning panoramic views over the surrounding jungle and rivers that highlighted just how green a country Laos is!  We began the tedious process of finding a bus that was not trying to rip us off to take us the more remote areas of Northern Laos and eventually we were able to begin our journey to find river trips through the jungle that are still accessible after the recent building of dams by the Chinese throughout the country!