The Armadillo of Europe

Early morning in the old town of Warsaw

The city of Warsaw does not conjure up images of grand European cities (in fact it probably does quite the opposite) and we arrived in the city expecting classic Soviet architecture at its best.  Granted, the outskirts of the city are a concrete jungle but we were surprised with how picturesque the reconstructed old town, sweeping parks and modern business district were.  Our first apartment was in one of the ‘traditional’ apartment blocks and despite the grey walls and seemingly endless mesh gates that divided the huge building the apartment itself was like an Ikea show room.  It seemed to sum up the stereotypical view of Poland compared to what we had experienced – crunchy on the outside yet soft on the inside (although unlike an armadillo).  We unfortunately had to move apartments and we ended up next to a 6 lane motorway and tram line as well as glowing advertising boards that meant we needed sunglasses at night. None of this made for the best sleep but we were determined to make the most of our time in Warsaw.

Lazienki Park

A lot of our time in Warsaw was spent applying for jobs for next September but we were able to go exploring getting a small feel for the city.  After the laborious task of completing application forms was completed we went for a walk around the picturesque Lazienki Park.  The entire park was carpeted in red and gold leaves and as we strolled past the baroque bath-house set in the centre of a huge pond whilst chasing the numerous red squirrels the sky went scarlet with the setting sun.  It more than made up for the day spent on a laptop and the subsequent poor excuse for a Chinese we had for dinner (a questionable choice for dinner as I am not sure the Poles are renowned for oriental cuisine).  Not wanting to waste our visit we went and had a walk in the old town early in the morning before our bus to Lithuania left.  90% of the buildings in Warsaw were destroyed in WW2 and it is a testament to the resolve of the people that it was restored to its previous appearance in just 8 years.  The guide was keen to point out the rivalry with Krakow and although the old town in Warsaw was not as picture perfect as in Krakow it was full of character and stories.  It was also very noticeable in the people and buildings that Krakow used to belong in the old Austro – Hungarian Empire (with its elegance and almost haughty attitude) whereas Warsaw was in the Old Russian Empire (more practical and tough).  The spectre of the Nazis still hangs over the city and memorials along the walls of the old Jewish ghetto and to the victims of the Warsaw uprising are prominent reminders of Poland’s ruthless history and yet highlight the progress made in the city.