Saturday, 6 February 2016

Bangkok - the 21st century’s answer to Sodom and Gomorrah

The King looks over everything
Whenever Bangkok comes up in conversation I find it impossible not to chuckle at the world’s best named city and I arrived back into the metropolis excited and intrigued to explore the 21st century’s answer to Sodom and Gomorrah.  There seems to be no black and white in Bangkok where the marker for decorum slides up and down to an appropriate level for you. Anything seems to go and rather than be hidden away in dark alleys glowing neon signs light up streets advertising everything from Lady Boy Bars, massage parlours offering optional extras and infamous Ping Pong shows.  Without looking for trouble Bangkok instead throws it at you.  Having been left alone by Hannah for less than 48 hours I finished my mid-afternoon dental appointment on one of the main shopping streets and headed next door to watch the tennis final, only to find myself playing pool with a Thai hooker in one of the infamous Go Go Bars, I was soundly beaten 3-0.  Bangkok (or me, I left undecided) seems to be a magnet for all manner of excess but looking beyond the seedy side of the city it radiates energy and it is impossible not to get caught up in the chaos and pace of life that surrounds you.



Soi Cowboy - Made famous by the Hang Over 2

Navigating the pavement!
We took a few days away from cultural activities to catch up with ‘real life’; replenishing our dirty clothes in Terminal 21 shopping centre, relaxing by the pool in our Airbnb apartment and sorting our paperwork for the new job.  The first four days were spent rushing between the hospital and various government offices trying to have medical checks legalised for our new job.  With this successfully accomplished and with Hannah safely on a plane to Phuket I was left to see what damage I could cause over a long weekend.  My favourite part of Bangkok was not the palaces and temples (maybe I was still recovering from being templed  out in Myanmar) but roaming the back streets and watching the chaos of life in the city unfold.  Trying to squeeze past stalls selling everything from knocked off Viagra to Tasers as disco tuc-tucs shouted at me above the symphony of horns and engines provided no end of entertainment.  Known as the land of smiles for a reason it was frenetic but very friendly and I ended up getting lost amongst the narrow alleys until I emerged at the river bank and Wat Pho, home to a 46 metres long reclining Buddha and six temples covered in exquisite murals. 
Wat Pho temple
Buying a new identity on
The Kosan Road
I had been told I had to experience The Kosan road, described in The Beach as ‘the centre of the backpacking universe’.  Walking up the one kilometre street lined with bars and hostels it was possible to become a crusty hippy complete with shit tattoos and dread locks, a University Professor with a Doctorate all for $5 or as I discovered when I was accosted in a bar married to a lady boy sporting a moustache and bobbing Adams Apple.  Running backwards up the street for safety I decided to head back to the apartment before I fell into the clutches of Bangkok. The apartment was sat in the middle of one of Bangkok’s numerous building projects and behind the famous RCA clubbing street.  We had discovered one of the best restaurants of our trip on the RCA where a friendly Thai man spoke broken English from his pilgrimage to Liverpool four decades earlier to pay homage to the Beetles.   I decided to take one of the motor bike taxis through the congested roads for a few Singha beers and dinner there to recover from my earlier scare. Several hours later I eventually stumbled towards home when I met a few of the builders who lived in the temporary estate created from huge metal containers at the side of the construction site.    I was soon sat in the back of a pick-up truck in the middle of container town drinking Thai Whiskey from a beer bottle, managing to communicate through the international language of football with my new friends.  In hindsight it was probably for the best that Hannah was only gone for a few days as it is impossible to ‘do Bangkok’, Bangkok only ‘does you’ (quite literally if you are not too careful) and we left on the 6am train to the Cambodian border before I could get into any serious trouble!

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